The history of the trench coat
Image Credit: Art by The Style Historian, Original images credited above.
I ordered a classic, oversized trench and I’ve been waiting for (what feels like) weeks for it.
It’s hard to imagine another item as iconic and classic as a beige trench – just in time for longer days, a glimpse of sun – for spring to arrive.
Paired with nearly any fit, I love a good trench – elevating the casual jeans, sweater and sneaker combo, wrapping it over my business wear before I trod off to another meeting in the city (who is she?), or the slow Saturday errands with a baseball cap… ala Jeremy Allen White making his weekly floral marketplace visit vibes.
It’s giving timeless elegance – a revered classic, unbound to any decade and a wardrobe staple.
When I think back and recall the first time I saw one – it was Saturday cartoons with Inspector Gadget and the Pink Panther. (Honestly – if you’re old enough to remember these, please don’t forget to share your Retinol routine in the comments.)
But let’s get back to it – what inspired the timeless jacket that’s surpassed time, decades, societal shifts, and when did they first hit the scene?
Friends, it’s been a minute and I’ve been missing you – let’s dig in.
The origins
As expected, the trench coat has been around for a while – over 150 years in fact.
And with most humble beginnings, it comes back to scientists doing the most to add convenience to our lives. However, there is much dispute over who should be credited for what.
I’ll try my best to untangle the internet for you (in less than five minutes, of course).
Our story begins in the 1820s, when Scottish chemist and inventor Charles Macintosh invented a waterproof rubberized fabric through experimenting with naphtha (an oily liquid extracted from tar).
Called macks, the jackets became an instant success in Britain, keeping the country’s notorious rain out but had an unfortunate problem – the fabric didn’t breathe and became known for its smell.
Image Credit: Original Mackintosh Rainproof Jacket via Mackintosh.com
By the 1850s, macks were being worn by the British in everyday life as well as in the military, but inventors were keen to figure out a way to adapt macks into a more appealing coat.
Disputed credit
This is where things get a bit murky on who created what, and who should receive the real nod for ‘creating’ the trench coat.
Enter the two British men often credited with creating what we now know today as the modern trench coat – one you might know quite well.
The first, John Emary, invented and patented a more breathable water-resistant fabric in 1853 – his company was called “Aquascutum”, (in Latin meaning ‘aqua’ for water and ‘scutum’ – shield’). It wasn’t long before men were wearing his jacket to keep well-dressed in the ever-changing British weather.
Image Credit: Image Credit: 1917 Aquascutum Ad, Pinterest
And a young Thomas Burberry (yes, that Burberry), an outfitter and entrepreneur with a small menswear business, was interested in waterproof materials for men’s outdoor activities.
He invented ‘gabadine’ in 1879, a weatherproofed twill that was also breathable – created by a unique process of coating individual strands of cotton or wool fiber before weaving, inevitably developing a much more lightweight and comfortable garment.
Image Credit: Burberry Ad, 1938, Pinterest
Similar to Emary’s invention, Burberry’s outwear became incredibly popular with the upper class for hunting and outdoor activities, and was worn by explorers, adventurers and aviators, including Nobel Peace Prize winner Dr. Fritjof Nansen, who was the first to wear Burberry’s gabadine to the poles in 1893.
In the trenches
Looking to adapt its uniforms as the nature of war changed, the British military reached out to popular outdoor menswear designers for help – though some sources claim Burberry and Emary had already been designing for the military prior to WWI.
But it was really WWI that set the scene for the trench we know today – military dress for the British was adapting as they continued to conquer. Their uniforms needed to be functional and camouflaged to fit into the landscape (a lesson learned from conflict in India – khaki means ‘dust’ in Hindi), while allowing them to move quickly and survive the harsh conditions of being in the trenches.
Previously, officers had worn long, heavy overcoats made out of a thick wool material – while warm, they became a liability in the trenches. In response, it is alleged the trench coat was developed.
Soldiers needed to move more quickly, survive the harsh conditions of the trenches, and the coats needed to be easily mass produced.
They key characteristics of the trench coat included:
- Double-breasted and tailored to the waist – to keep in style with the officers’ uniforms
- Wide lapels
- 10 button fastening to the collar to help with poisonous gas attacks
- Large pockets to hold maps
- A pleated cape, also known as a “storm flap” to allow rain to fall off
- Waist belt with D-ring – to hold accessories, like a pistol, map, or binoculars
- Adjustable buckle cuffs around the wrists to keep water out
- Waterproof
- Raglan sleeves to allow for easy movement
- Knee-length – to be short enough to not trail in the mud, allow for easy movement while still covering most of the body
While both Burberry and Aquascutum take credit for ‘inventing’ the trench coat, most sources agree that what they really did was popularize an already-existing coat (the mack) through the adaptation for military use, especially WWI.
Image Credit: Burberry Military Ad, Pinterest
A symbol of class
Besides its pure functionality in combat, the trench was used as a status tool – only higher-ranking military and British officers were given the new trench coats (which they had to pay for themselves), reaffirming the trench as an exclusive coat while reinforcing the social hierarchy of the military.
It’s worth mentioning that previously only aristocratic men held higher ranking roles, but due to the devastation caused by WWI, working class men had to be promoted out of necessity – called ‘temporary gentleman’, the trench further established itself as a symbol of class and status.
With the trench coat solidifying its status, the jackets also became a marketer’s dream – popular with both men and women, affluent consumers purchased the jacket as an act of patriotism to show support of the war efforts.
Officers continued to wear their trenches following the war, and by 1934, the jacket was so popular Burberry offered same-day delivery in London.
Image Credit: Burberry Military Ad, Pinterest
Image Credit: Aquascutum Ad, Date Unknown, Pinterest
Image Credit; Aquascutum Ad, 1947, Pinterest
That’s show business
Following the war, the trench coat arrived in Hollywood and furthered its popularity, becoming a symbol of mystery and mystique via detectives, gangsters and femme fatales on screen.
Two films that cemented the status of Burberry’s trench coat were Casablanca and Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
Image Credit: Audrey Hepburn in a Burberry trench, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Pinterest.
Image Credit: Humphrey Bogart in Burberry, Casablanca, Pinterest
Elevating the jackets into a fashion statement of sophistication, the associations with its early origins of practical and military use continued to fade.
And by the 90s – the history of the trench was long forgotten, with even Burberry using the marketing slogan ‘trench fever’. Many people didn’t make the correlation or realize that trench fever was actually a disease transmitted by the lice in the very same context that created the trench coat (gross).
When I started researching this week’s topic, what I was really hoping to find online was a timeline of the evolution of the modern-day trench.
But what I found instead was an homage to a classic.
It has been updated over the years, from Burberry introducing bright colours during the 90s, to changing lengths – however what has remained constant is that the trench is a classic garment.
Image Credit: Classic Burberry Stone Trench Coat via The Luminaries Magazine
Today, it continues to evoke timeless elegance. While colours, variances in length and oversized looks have shifted as styles have changed, the basic elements of the trench have not.
But I suppose that’s why it’s heralded as a classic – it’s a look you don’t have to invest in regularly, one that can sit in your closet until the rainy weather brings a need for it, or a spring day calls for something a bit more glam.
Versatile, sophisticated and always effortlessly chic – the last time I invested in a trench was at Club Monaco in 2016 – I’m probably due for another.
And I’ve been so excited for this recent purchase… though the tracking tells me she may be lost forever.
Let’s hope not, though.
Until next time,
⁃ TSH xx
As always, I couldn’t do what I do without the help of incredible research and resources which are listed below. Wishing everyone a wonderful week ahead - thanks for being here. If you enjoyed this article, please leave me a comment below and let me know what topics you’re interested in learning about next!
Sources: Smithsonian Mag, Vogue, Contrado, MichaelAndrews, TheShirtCompany, Wikipedia – Thomas Hancock, Arts and Culture, Wikipedia – John Emary, Fashion Gone Rogue, FashionEra, Wikipedia – Thomas Burberry, Harper’s Bazaar