The story of sequins
Image Credit: The Style Historian.
Sequins, by and large, are about optimism – a pop of cheer during the cold, winter months. A sparkle to elevate an otherwise basic outfit. A little bit of excess. They’re about fun.
When I think of sequins, it’s Beyoncé’s Renaissance Tour. Metallic pants. And monochromatic all-sequin power suits (my love language).
Gone away are the notions of tacky sequin as costume, the cheap dance-recital bow headbands, the infamous MJ glove. Sequins are a vibe I’m no longer embarrassed about.
But where did sequins come from and why are we so into them?
Friends, let’s dig in.
The origins
Sources agree that the word sequin comes from the Arabic word ‘sikka’, meaning coin – this stemmed from the common practice of sewing coins onto your clothing, which many believe occurred for centuries across the Middle East and Europe.
The reason? Coins separated classes symbolizing status and wealth, offered a safeguard from theft, and also in some cultures (Egyptian, Indian, Peruvian) were believed to ward off evil spirits.
But it wasn’t until the 1920s that sequins started to take flight into how we’d eventually see them today, when the tomb of King Tutankhamun (King Tut) was opened, revealing robes and garments embellished with small discs made of pure gold (and embroidered in the shapes of flowers).
As news of King Tut’s tomb spread (and as the West loves to do) Western designers became obsessed with the sparkle, and sequins began their ascent to the mainstream.
A sequin sensation
First used by ballet costume designers for sparkle onstage, it wasn’t long before 1920s flappers started wearing sequins on their dresses, reflecting the liberation white American women were experiencing during this time.
Women were now able to vote and wear rising hemlines, underscored by a cultural shift into valuing one’s individuality over service to others (the domestic burden).
For material, sequins were made of metal and were rather heavy. Designers struggled with creating a lightweight sequin out of gelatin that wouldn’t melt if you got hot from dancing or dissolved in the rain (my sequin Forever 21 dress in university would never).
As scientific invention spurred during World War II, sequins became more durable for day-to-day wear (credited from our friends at DuPont – the same who created nylons from last week’s post), eventually becoming the plastic, mass-producible sequins we know today.
But this is when things get interesting, dear reader.
Hidden beneath the visual glitz and glam of this story, is unique folklore intertwined in the history of the sequin. Tales you might not see on the surface, but each play an integral role in keeping the sequin mainstream over the course of three decades.
Are you ready? First stop – the 1960s.
Sequin superstars
As with most trends in our pop culture saturated society, it’s the rise of celebrity that influences what’s cool and what’s not, and we can’t talk about sequins without mentioning The Supremes.
The Supremes (or Diana Ross and the Supremes, depending who you ask) are known for bringing sequins back to the mainstream, donning matching glamourous fits, a look synonymous with Motown.
But as founding member Mary Wilson recalls, their sequin dresses became a suit of armour – helping change racial perception during the boiling tension of the American civil rights movement.
On one hand, television required glitz so they could sparkle under the bright studio lights. On the other, the sparkling outfits gave deeper meaning – breaking stereotypes and influencing performers for years to come (like Destiny’s Child).
In a time of growing unrest, their glamorous look was intentional – across television screens were empowered, creative and glamorous black women – dressed as they’d never been before on national television.
For Mary Wilson, although they did not march – they were seen, becoming not only style icons, but role models to young black women and girls.
Image Credit: The Supremes via Pinterest
And as the ‘70s took over, the disco era moved in – bringing sequin jumpsuits, glam rock, and a little club called Studio 54.
A vehicle for gender expression
One of the most famous clubs of all time, Studio 54 was home to some of the most iconic fashion looks of the 1970s. The disco era brought an introduction of self-expression, glamour – fashion meets fun.
And of course, sequins were worn to reflect the disco ball’s light on the dance floor.
An icon who encapsulated this era of glam rock was none other than superstar David Bowie, challenging social conventions and changing fashion with his experimentation of appearance, sequined jumpsuits and gender-defying style, reinventing himself at every opportunity and pushing the boundaries of sexuality.
As Lady Gaga aptly put it to Rolling Stone, “my whole career is a tribute to David Bowie.”
Image Credit: David Bowie via FadedSpring.co.uk
But it was the premiere of Billie Jean in 1983 by Michael Jackson that catapulted sequins into its next level. It was the first time the world would see the moonwalk, and also the first time MJ donned his infamous white sequin glove (with a sequined black jacket).
It’s no surprise that MJ would wear sequins – he was a dancer, and was meticulous about his costumes and presentation.
That said, he wasn’t wearing the sequin glove for style – he first started wearing the glove to cover up his newly growing skin condition, vitiligo.
Maybe, one could say, another suit of armour.
Image Credit: MJ at the 1984 Grammy’s via Pinterest
Sequins are the new black
In the words of designer Ashish Gupta, sequins are “a protest against gloom” – you can’t feel sad if you’re in sequins.
For us today, sequins provide a certain glitz and glam for a special occasion, the holidays. Where we gather with family, survive the chaotic social overload and get all dressed up until we do it all again next year.
Though over the years, we can see this protest in the iterations of sequins – from flappers finding liberation, The Supremes’ influence amid deep racial segregation, the boundary pushing of David Bowie, to the hidden shame of the King of Pop.
With sequins, maybe these performers didn’t feel so alone or so ordinary. On the stage, they could transform and transcend the struggles of their eras, and (not to be too dramatic) of their private lives.
If you’re still with me (I hope you are), from this I take the view that sequins speak to the power of clothing.
And I know some people find fashion and clothing frivolous, which is just fine.
But our clothes can change our moods, elevate our confidence and make us ready to seize any challenge (after the pandemy, I know I feel more like myself when I’m put together vs not).
And I have it on good authority, sequins are no longer just a trend for the holidays – you can actually wear them year-round.
Why?
Because as my favourite style icon (and Real Housewife of New York) Jenna Lyons said while creative director at J Crew, “sequins are the new black.”
Until next time,
- TSH xx
Thank you for reading our third instalment, please let me know if you enjoyed this by commenting below! I so appreciate you being here with me.
Resources:
Threads Magazine - Sequins, The Financial Times – The Supremes, Wikipedia: The Supremes, The Guardian – 1920s, Fashion Revolution - Sequins, Mental Floss - Sequins, Smooth Radio - MJ, Oprah Daily – The Sequin, Smithsonian Magazine, Racked.com – Sequins, Wikipedia - Sequin, Hello Magazine – Studio 54, The Guardian – The Supremes, The Guardian – David Bowie, The Boho Depot – The Disco Era, Id Vice – Studio 54, L’Officiel USA – David Bowie, Rolling Stone – David Bowie’s Fashion Influence, Vice – David Bowie, The Sydney Morning Herald – The Supremes, Victoria Albert Museum – The Supremes, Rolling Stone – Lady Gaga on David Bowie