Why are fashion flip flops so popular? The history (and evolution) of flip flops.
Image Credit: Images via Pinterest, Art by the Style Historian.
We saw flip flops come back with a tour de force at the 2023 Copenhagen Fashion Week, with more and more luxury brands dropping their own elevated (see also: expensive) versions ever since.
When spending time in Stockholm this summer, time and time again I caught flip flops in stores, from high-end YSL to mid-range Cos – but none in the streets.
It left me wondering – is anyone actually buying these?
Long associated with hitting the beach, surfers and cottage weekends, I’m still a bit baffled on the rise of the fashion flip flop.
But – how long have flip flops been around? And is the beach to blame?
Let’s get into it.
The origins of flip flops
The earliest documented origin of the flip flop is in Egypt in 4000 B.C. – often made from papyrus and palm leaves – with similar styles prominent throughout the Middle East, Korea, China, and Greece throughout history.
But the flip flops currently blowing up our algorithms? They come from Japan.
How Japanese footwear inspired modern flip flops today
There are two kinds of Japanese sandals that are responsible for today’s modern flip flop.
The first, called Geta – a sandal originating in the 5th Century used for elevating your feet above the rice in the fields.
Image Credit: Geta via blog.janbox.com
The second, zori, are thong sandals made from straw.
In a culture where you often remove your footwear while visiting homes, temples, and workplaces, they quickly rose to prominence throughout Japan.
Image Credit: Zori slippers via Satra.com.
While living in Japan many years ago, I tried wearing Geta – they were very difficult to walk in because you have to keep your legs straight. It’s almost like you’re shuffling.
These aren’t something you’ll see on the daily in Japan today, but you might catch them in Kyoto, if women are wearing traditional kimonos.
But it wasn’t until the 1940s that flip flops made their way West – thanks to Japanese immigrants settling in Hawaii, establishing their ‘island slippers’ and influencing American soldiers who brought them back to the mainland USA.
Image Credit: Island Slipper founder, Takizo Motonaga, a Japanese immigrant who moved to Hawaii, 1955 via Fashion Tech News.
Image Credit: The original island slipper, via Fashion Tech News.
Originally made from leather, people started to come back from vacation with their new “thong footwear”.
Quickly becoming popular in the surfing community in the 1960s, materials changed to rubber soles and nylon straps in the 1970s, with multiple companies seizing the opportunity to sell Japanese-inspired sandals.
The Americans quickly began making a rubber version – the name ‘flip flop’ is an onomatopoeia, named after the ‘flip’ and ‘flop’ sound they make when you walk.
Growing popularity in Western culture: why are flip flops so popular today?
The summer shoe has remained a staple in many of our wardrobes, something quick and easy to wear at a cottage or on the beach.
But only recently have they started to infiltrate fashion circles – and that’s thanks to the infinite influence of the Olsen twins.
The Row dropped its signature leather Ginza sandal in 2019 for a cool $990 – a thicker platform than the original rubber thong.
Image Credit: The Row Ginza platform sandal, via The Row.
We also see fashion stylists online describe these as ‘the elevated flip flop’ or ‘elevate your summer wardrobe with a new take on this classic staple’.
And in 2023 – the Row, alongside brands Burberry and Gabriela Hearst, also premiered a thong-style sandal, the trend affirmed when Jennifer Lawrence showed up at Cannes in flip flops on the red carpet.
Image Credit: Jennifer Lawrence wearing flip flops on the red carpet in 2023.
According to Elle, since the beginning of 2024, searches for 'designer flip flops' on eBay have increased by more than 335% and Net-A-Porter reported a 600% surge in searches for chunky flip flops throughout May – July, 2024.
The dad shoe renaissance era
Over the past few years, it feels like we’ve been living in a dad shoe renaissance.
Ugly? Chunky? Pragmatic? How chic.
Chunky New Balance. Crocs. Birkenstocks.
It’s as if comfort is finally – king.
However, I know we haven’t completely succumbed to practicality when I see the hype around flip flops.
Unless you’re wearing a chunkier, more stable style for your foot (I assume) – there is no way you can live in a city and commute in flip flops, at least without feeling the pain.
And podiatrists agree, slamming flip flops online (a fun deep dive I never anticipated digging into, if you need an entertaining read).
But if we know anything about fashun – if it doesn’t pinch, hurt or squeeze – is it even a fit at all?
Do you sacrifice style for comfort? Let me know below!
Until next time,
-TSH